From Racine to Enicar

The Beginnings of Enicar

The story of Enicar begins long before the brand itself took shape, reaching back to the 1700s when the Racine family established themselves as esteemed artisans in Switzerland. Known for their dedication to the arts and skilled craftsmanship, the Racines built a legacy in watchmaking that spanned generations. Among the Racine family members, many contributed to the development of fine timepieces, but few formally used their name in branding. One notable exception was Jules Racine Sr., who saw the potential to solidify the family’s reputation in the industry by registering “Racine” as a watch brand in 1870, marking an early chapter in Swiss watchmaking history.

Fast forward to October 1, 1913, when Ariste Racine, alongside his wife Emma Blatt, founded the "Manufacture d'Horlogerie Ariste Racine" in the heart of Swiss watchmaking: La Chaux-de-Fonds, a town famed for its deep-rooted horological heritage within the Canton of Jura. Despite their eagerness to use the family name, Ariste and Emma quickly realized that “Racine” had already been trademarked in the watch industry. Thinking creatively, Emma suggested reversing the letters of their last name, turning "Racine" into "Enicar"—a unique and memorable name for their new venture. This clever twist was formalized when “Enicar” was registered as a watch brand on January 6, 1914.

In their early days, Ariste and Emma Racine began crafting watches with a humble setup, working out of their sunroom. They operated with a small but dedicated team, consisting of one in-house technician and two external technicians who contributed to bringing their designs to life. Among their first creations was a pocket watch with a round housing at the bottom. This design allowed owners to personalize their watch by adding a compass for navigation or a photograph of a loved one.

As their business grew, Ariste and Emma expanded their workspace, renting part of Ariste's mother’s home in Longeau. By 1918, their success had allowed them to purchase the entire house, which they transformed into a new branch called the “Longeau Watch Co.” The family business flourished even further when Ariste’s brother, Oskar Racine, joined the team. However, as demand for Enicar’s innovative designs increased, even this expanded space couldn’t keep up. Recognizing the need for larger facilities, they constructed a new factory in Longeau. On April 11, 1932, the business took a formal step forward, registering as Enicar S.A., a move that marked the beginning of its journey as a recognized brand in Swiss watchmaking.

Brand Evolution and Current Stage

With a new factory now in place, Enicar took an ambitious step forward by developing its own in-house movements, named “AR” after Ariste Racine himself. This was a significant shift for the brand, as they moved away from relying on Adolph Schild (AS) movements, which were common in the industry at the time. By producing AR movements, Enicar enhanced the quality and uniqueness of their watches, giving them greater control over the precision and durability of each timepiece. Following the success of their pocket watches and alarm table clocks in the fifties, the brand soon expanded into producing waterproof automatic watches, responding to a growing demand for robust, adventure-ready models.

A standout model that followed this shift was the SeaPearl, one of Enicar’s early diver watches. The SeaPearl 600, introduced in the 1950s, gained attention through rigorous Navy tests alongside famous models like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner. While the SeaPearl was noted for its robust design and luminosity, it ultimately wasn’t selected due to lacking a rotating bezel—an essential feature for professional divers at the time. However, the SeaPearl 600 left its mark in the growing field of recreational diving and continues to hold value among collectors due to its distinctive aesthetic and reliable AR 1120 movement.

The Sherpa line, introduced shortly after the SeaPearl, was perhaps Enicar’s most iconic series. Capitalizing on the brand’s association with mountaineering, particularly their 1956 Everest sponsorship, the Sherpa models ranged from the Sherpa Guide, designed for global travellers with a GMT bezel, to the Sherpa Graph, favoured by racing icons like Stirling Moss. This line became widely popular due to its durability and innovative features, like the Super Compressor case for water resistance and high-visibility lumed dials. The Sherpa series evolved in the 1960s and 70s, expanding into speciality models like the Sherpa Dive and Sherpa Jet, making them a favourite among adventurers and watch enthusiasts alike

Enicar produced several other notable models beyond its famous Sherpa line, each with unique features that appealed to various users. For example, the Enicar Ultrasonic became popular for its innovative ultrasonic cleaning process, introduced around 1953, which was intended to extend the durability of the oils used in the watches. This technology gained attention for its practicality, making maintenance easier and less frequent.

During WWII, Enicar found a unique position in the watch market, as it reportedly supplied timepieces to both sides of the conflict. Although it didn’t receive a “Dirty Dozen” designation like other Swiss manufacturers, its reliability and versatility made it popular among military personnel and travelers in post-war Europe. This era also saw Enicar expand its offerings with durable and shock-resistant models, marking its evolution from a modest manufacturer to a sought-after brand among soldiers and explorers alike. Following the war, Enicar continued to build on this military legacy, eventually introducing the Saturn logo in the 1950s, which would become synonymous with its growing reputation worldwide.

Some notable events in the brand’s history include receiving a certification of accuracy from the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres in 1955, assisting the 1956 Swiss Everest Expedition with precision chronometers, and having a Sherpa chronometer installed on the rudder of the Mayflower II, where it survived 50 days submerged in seawater. Additionally, Enicar was involved with British Formula One Champion Stirling Moss in 1958, showcasing its commitment to high-performance timekeeping in the world of motorsport. 

As the industry evolved, Enicar adapted to the late 60s and 70s, introducing quartz watches featuring the Beta 21 movement developed by the renowned Centre Électronique Horloger in Switzerland, which won “The Watch of Precision” at the Neuchâtel Observatory, proudly presenting the Sherpa Quartz to the market for the first time.

Enicar faced insolvency on November 13, 1987, leading to the sale of its remaining stock and movements to Gerd-Ruediger Lang, who established Chronoswiss from these assets. 

In 1988, Wah Ming Hong Ltd., a Hong Kong-based company that had been Enicar's distributor in China since the 1930s, acquired the brand name. Under the ownership of Lee Wai-Lee, Wah Ming Hong shifted the brand's focus primarily to the Chinese market, where Enicar is marketed as “Enicar of Switzerland.” Although the brand still has a presence in La Chaux-de-Fonds, details about its production processes remain unclear.

My Enicar Watch: The Personal Story

This Enicar was one of the first five vintage watches I ever acquired, and I truly appreciate how the patina is almost evenly distributed across the dial. The Saturn logo and all the text remain in surprisingly good condition, while the cyclops over the date adds a touch of elegance to the overall design.

Turning to the back of the watch, I noticed some intriguing patterns accompanied by various inscriptions. Among these, a few codes stand out. For instance, the "100/148" denotes the watch reference number. To decipher the text "aCS," we need to consult an old Enicar brochure.

And these translate to:

• a = All steel

• M = Brass, chrome-plated or Brass 20 micron Gold plating

• P = Plaque, 20 micron

• G = Gold

• B = Seapearl case, bayonet type, 100% waterproof to 5 ATM

• A = Automatic

• C = Calendar

• N = Sherpa housing, 100% waterproof to 20 ATM = 200m sea depth

• X = Rotating bezel

• T = Rotating bezel with time division

• S = Center second

• CH = Chronograph 

When we decode the case back, "aCS" indicates an all-steel body with a date complication and a central second hand. 

Now, let’s open the case back. I was genuinely impressed to find that a watch from the late 1950s can still produce such a crisp sound, both while winding and ticking. Much credit goes to Mr B, the previous owner, whose care has preserved this beauty. The watch houses an Enicar Caliber AR 1009B, an 11.5''' manual-wind movement. This variant features 25 jewels, with three additional pairs of cap jewels that enhance its shock protection through the Incabloc system.

In summary, Enicar's journey from a revered Swiss watchmaker to its peak popularity with models like the Sherpa and Ultrasonic showcases a rich legacy in horology. While the brand may no longer produce new timepieces, the availability of vintage models in the secondary market continues to fuel the passion of collectors and enthusiasts. The enduring appeal of these classic watches ensures that Enicar's spirit lives on, allowing fans to appreciate their craftsmanship and history for years to come.

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Appreciation

A big thanks to Mr B from @timekeepr.in for the watch, for helping me with the history and for the crisp close-up shots.